Archive for the ‘Natural Wine’ Category

Feb 10, 2014

The Wine Materialist Lays a Natural Turd

I chuckle every time I hear the phrase uttered or written: “As Nature Intended”. On its face, the phrase implies that nature or the natural world displays intent, which further implies that a rock, an apple tree, the wind, iron molecules and, yes, even vineyards possess intelligence. And this is a kind interpretation of the phrase. At base, the phrase implies that “Nature” is a single intelligent actor that is at least willful and at most omnipotent. It’s a pretty…

Sep 11, 2013

Will the Natural Wine Movement Listen to an Authentic Authority?

If anyone within the wine writing establishment has concentrated more on the issue of authenticity in wine, the virtues of terroir, and the benefits of naturalness in wine than the Wine Spectator’s Matt Kramer, then I don’t know who it is. Back in 1992, reading Kramer’s “Making Sense of California Wine”, I first encountered his earnest search for real naturalness in wine when, writing in the preface he declared: “For the first time, it is possible, however tentatively, to start…

Aug 2, 2013

Wild Yeast Fermentation: “There’s No Such Thing”

Some fairly stunning information concerning the idea of “Wild” or “Indigenous” yeast is coming to light that has implications for wine marketing and wine making. How shall I put this? Let’s try this: If you think your wine went through fermentation driven by wild yeast or if you think the wine you are drinking was produced via a wild yeast fermentation, it probably wasn’t. This is the startling conclusion brought to light in a study undertaken in British Columbia and…

Jul 24, 2013

Dirty, Grimy Wine Marketing

“I think we’ve been living in ‘Parkerworld’ for the last few decades, and many consumers are fed up with homogenized supermarket wines, and now need a bit of singularity, uniqueness and authenticity, not to mention some real quality.”  “So natural wines fill a need for authenticity, for a singular product that was made by a real person, and that tastes unique, and that expresses the terroir of where it came from.” Fabio Bartolomei, winemaker, Vinos Ambiz on natural wines at…

Jul 8, 2013

Impressions of the Natural Wine Movement

I just can’t help but wonder how typical of the average active wine drinker is Lettie Teague’s assessment off her exploration into the meaning and taste of “Natural” wine. Teague, a respected and award-winning wine writer for the influential and widely read Wall Street Journal, investigated this nebulous category of wine and concluded the following: “My tasting didn’t lead me to any profound conclusions, although it did lead me to believe that some natural winemakers are more talented than others….