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Dec 1, 2021

Natural Wine Causes More Headaches For Wine Drinkers and Natural Wine

New research shows that one of Natural Wine’s most important claims, that it contains fewer nasty sulfites than (what do they call it? “Commercial”? “Industrial”) wines is in fact a headache-inducing circumstance. In other words, the new research shows that wines with low levels of sulfites are more likely to leave a drinker with a post-drinking headache due to the fact that these low sulfite wines have greater levels of biogenic amines, the compound likely to cause headaches. I find…

Jan 3, 2020

Fermentation – Natural Wine and Irony

I’m always excited when I see a new commitment to wine coverage from establishment media. I even get excited when that coverage adopts a moniker that mimics the title of this blog, as in the case of Edible Brooklyn announcing a new wine column they are calling “Fermentation”. What makes Edible Brooklyn’s new wine column, “Fermentation”, a reliably ironic development is that while the title of the new column is the same as the title of this 15-year-old blog, it…

Oct 19, 2019

Natural Wine—Ouch! Is It Funny Because It’s True?

Wow GIF from Wow GIFs OUCH!! “Compared to traditional wines, natural wines have a wider range of flavor profiles, owing to the fact that they’re not constrained by oppressive concepts such as “good” and “drinkable.” You’ll find some that are effervescent and floral, while others can be tannic and herbal. Still others resemble the Syrah that your friends were expecting you to bring to their dinner party, so try to find that one, please.” This (and more) from a New…

Jul 22, 2019

What Is It About Natural Wine That Turns Folks Into Incoherent Ranters?

I recognize the writing style of Oliver Styles. I recognize Style’s writing style because it’s much like mine. I start writing a diatribe and begin with reason, with deferential tones, then I descend into straight-up ranting. It happens. Styles is a winemaker who wants to take to task the Wine Spectator’s James Molesworth for his less than enthusiastic endorsement of Natural wine. The problem that Styles faces in his diatribe is different than mine insofar as when I descend into…

Apr 12, 2018

Hypocrisy and Natural Wine

So, Isabelle Legeron wants stricter label requirements for wine and more transparency….except no word of such “transparency” when it comes to the use of the term “Natural”.  For that term on a label or promotional materials, no such label regulations are necessary: Stronger legal framework Careful food sourcing should equal careful drinks sourcing, says Isabelle Legeron. For her it just makes sense. As restaurants, and their customers alike, care even more about what what goes through their kitchen, and ends…