If anyone in the wine community wants a reason why Alder Yarrow’s Vinography won BEST WINE BLOG OF THE YEAR two years running, they need only look to the letters section of today’s San Francisco Chronicle.Alder’s take on the "Zinfandel as CA Official Grape" controversy is, well, unique. If Alder’s own cheek weren’t already quite busy accommodating his tongue, I might give it a big kiss for provoking me to laugh out loud.