Imagining Wine Reviews

THIS is New. Very New!

And it’s very, very good.

We’ve been given numbers, stars, puffs, written descriptions, Haiku, X’s, verbal descriptions and the old ThumbsUp-Thumbs-Down. But what I’ve never seen used before to review a wine is a simple image.

"
we hope to provide a valuable tool for wine drinkers by using
colors, sketches, photography, and other visual media in order to
convey both the intrinsic components of a particular wine along with a
general impression of it. Wine is art, drinking it should be too!"

Strawberry
This new and very intriguing approach to wine reviews is the work of Benjamin Saltzman at a new wine Blog called CHATEAU PETROGASM.

Is it possible to describe a wine with just a single image? Of course it is. If we can look at a number and discern any meaning at all, we can certainly look at a beautiful photo of a ripe, moldy, summer strawberry and from it learn something about the 2004 DRC Eschezeaux. In fact, we learn much more from this than we do a number or an X or a Star or any other rating. I’d also argue that depending on the writer, this photo gives us much more information than a 100 word description.

To be sure, this is impressionistic wine reviewing that is not nearly as precise as a good written description of a wine, though Saltzman, I think, is quite prepared to argue that the written word falls short as a tool to fully describe a wine due largely to the subjective nature of the impact that wine has on any one individual. And a simple image doesn’t provide the kind of context that I think is necessary in a well-done review of a wine. That fact, however, does not deny that this approach to wine reviewing is down right inspired…on a number of levels.

As Chateau Petrogasm’s founder Saltzman points out in his ABOUT SECTION, using images to convey an impression of wine overcomes the problem of language barriers that any written description of wine must bump up against. This is a problem with the written review that my English-centric mind had never considered.

It helps of course that Saltzman clearly has an eye for evocative and beautiful images. It is probably also helpful that Saltzman comes from a family that cultivated an appreciation of art. Saltzman himself is in the wine industry in Los Angeles, though I confess I do not know in what capacity he works in the industry. However, based on the wines he reviews (that doesn’t seem the right word for what he does at Chateau Petrogasm—perhaps "REVEALS" is the better term) he does have access to some pretty coveted bottlings.

The most pleasurable thing about being provided with an image to "reveal" a wine is that it forces one toBrick
deconstruct the image even as one appreciates it. It’s a fun little intellectual excersize. While some will be turned off by the image of a rotting, ripe strawberry, at the same time we are asked to step to one side mentally and consider the practical implications and meanings of this image without any help from accompanying words: we get to deconstruct the 04 DRC Eschezeaux by considering the inherent meaning of strawberry, mold, ripe and blank background. This is good work for the mind and good for the soul.

If I were Saltzman, I would immediately develop a proposal for a coffee table book based on the idea of Visual Reviews of Wine and present it to a publisher with a proven record for putting out fine art compendiums.

Chateau Petrogasm is the most interesting and provocative wine blog I’ve seen in very long time. It’s an important blog and presents a new way to think about wine and wine reviews.

Tags:


91 Responses

  1. el jefe - August 10, 2007

    A moldy strawberry… definitely something I want to put in my mouth! I’d rather watch Conan & Gary put the moldy strawberry in their mouths…

  2. Mary B. - August 10, 2007

    A moldy strawberry? 😉

  3. Tom Wark - August 10, 2007

    Deconstruct the image. Think about the meaning and how it relates to wine. It works.

  4. Alder Yarrow - August 10, 2007

    Um….? Clever to be sure. And nice photographs. But I’m not sure why you find it so provocative or important.
    By the way, what does a brick wall taste like exactly? And did Mr. Petrogasm enjoy it? Or Not?

  5. Dr. Debs - August 10, 2007

    I think this site is a brilliant innovation in wine reviews. I’m with Tom, and I’m glad he found the site, too. They deserve the accolades and the attention since it is truly the most imaginative new wine review format in ages.
    We wine bloggers like to say that the experience of drinking wine cannot be fully conveyed in words–so why are we so resistant to the notion that pictures do the job for some people?
    And it’s not about putting a moldy strawberry in your mouth, folks. It’s about what drinking a specific wine evokes in the person doing the drinking. Some people express is in words. Others, in images. Vive la difference.

  6. Tom Wark - August 10, 2007

    Alder:
    It’s provocative because it forces the “reader” to think differently about what constitutes a “review” of a wine. If fact, it asks the “viewer” to think more deeply about the wine than a written description.
    Reviews of wines can be offered for any number of purposes, to provoke any number of responses.
    This is very good stuff Salzman is doing. Let’s face it, a wine review that consists only of 88 points or 9 points or 3 stars is commonplace. Yet, what does it mean? I don’t know. I’m not even sure those ratings are asking me to think.
    Mr. Saltzman is asking me to think, to make connections. He’s appealing to a unique ability of humans to interpret and give meaning to color and form.
    I LIKE it.

  7. Dr. Debs - August 10, 2007

    Also, I wonder if a wine review that says “tastes of litchi with acacia flowers” is any more helpful in explaining to the average person how something tastes than a picture of a brick wall.

  8. winehiker - August 10, 2007

    It’s good brain calisthenics to think outside the “upper left quadrant” box – logical, analytical, and quantitative – to explore the “visual” upper right brain: holistic, intuitive, and synthesizing. Why, I believe I can visualize enjoying a petrogasm at least once a day, if not more often.

  9. Mike - August 10, 2007

    I’m certainly all for wine reviews that speak a common, understandable language. Even though they say a picture is worth a thousand words, the Chateau Petrogasm approach does not grab my imagination. It is perhaps more immediately informative than say the CNFATE tasting system of Alexander J. Pandell, Ph.D. (http://www.wineperspective.com/cnfate_tasting_system.htm). But then the CNFATE system tells me much more about a wine, if I’m willing to take the time to understand the scoring system.
    The serious problem with all wine reviews/scores is that they are inherently a personal opinion. Anyone can learn to taste wine. But a review or score is based mainly on sensory perception and prior experience, both of which can differ dramatically between individuals and in combination produce infinite variability. The Chateau Petrogasm approach means that the taster has formed an image of the wine through tasting. I would argue that the taster has used both sensory perception and experience to arrive at his/her view of the wine and then added an additional dimension of interpreting the wine in terms of an image. The taster is making me (at least) work very hard to try to reach the same conclusion. I think the best example of this is the moldy strawberry used to depict the 2004 DRC Eschezeaux, and below it the note “This is meant to be an extremely positive review!” A moldy strawberry is a not a positive image to me, and with the added note I’m now even more confused as to what the reviewer is trying to tell me about this wine especially in terms of sensory evaluation. Obviously both of us interpret visual images very differently. Now if the review had included a score of 19/20 or 96/100 etc, I wonder how many of us would be confused about the positively of the review?
    Mike

  10. Tom Wark - August 10, 2007

    “The serious problem with all wine reviews/scores is that they are inherently a personal opinion”
    Mike, I’m not sure this is a “problem” as much as it is a function of the fact that we have yet to devise a way to share sensory input and interpretation between individuals.
    ————————-
    “I would argue that the taster (AT CH. PETROGASM) has used both sensory perception and experience to arrive at his/her view of the wine and then added an additional dimension of interpreting the wine in terms of an image. The taster is making me (at least) work very hard to try to reach the same conclusion.”
    EXACTLY!!! And that’s the cool part. Adding another unique lens through which to interpret an artifact isn’t a bad thing. Often it can lead to unforeseen insight. The fact that we all have to “work” to one degree or another to internalize another’s view of something doesn’t bother me. But more importantly, CH. P isn’t asking you to reach the same conclusion. They are merely asking you to “consider this”..
    ———————————
    “A moldy strawberry is a not a positive image to me, and with the added note I’m now even more confused as to what the reviewer is trying to tell me about this wine especially in terms of sensory evaluation. Obviously both of us interpret visual images very differently. Now if the review had included a score of 19/20 or 96/100 etc, I wonder how many of us would be confused about the positively of the review?”
    Consider a written review that used the term “dirt” to, in part, describe a Pinot Noir. “Dirt” does not appeal to me. However, combined with other descriptors I get a sense of what it might add to what the taster tasted. Look at the ripe, moldy strawberry sitting against a blank background and consider the parts and how they, taken together, might provoke a whole interpretation of a wine.

  11. Jill - August 10, 2007

    If Marcel Duchamp reviewed wine, it would have looked like this…as I think I wrote on the GWU20 post on the same topic, this is like performance blogging or something like that.

  12. Tom Wark - August 10, 2007

    Jill,
    Well put!
    Tom…

  13. Paul - August 10, 2007

    Interesting and innovative… for people like us who take the time to really try to understand all there is about a certain bottle of wine. To the vast majority of wine consumers out there, this serves absolutely no purpose or has any meaning. What it may do is confuse the consumer even further. Most of the people I know who are not wine enthusiasts but do enjoy drinking wine on a weekly basis, just want to know if a wine is good and if it goes well with this or that dish. They don’t however have the time or desire to try to disect a wine description using words such as “dirt”, or images such that of a moldy strawberry.
    In my opinion, and with the outmost respect, this is a good example of how wine consumption in this country is negatively impacted by unecessary complexity.
    Paul

  14. Tom Wark - August 10, 2007

    Paul,
    If the point of criticism or wine reviews was to always provide useful information to the lowest common denominator then I would be inclined to agree with you.
    However, thankfully that is not the point, nor should it always be the point, of criticism. Popular criticism or “utilitarian criticism” certainly has its place and is the majority of criticism that we read in newspapers, magazines and online.
    However, there is most certainly a place for “higher criticism”. And that’s what Chateau Petrogasm represents and that’s what makes it both inspired and perhaps an important new way of communicating sensory perception of wine.
    By “Higher Criticism” I mean to suggest a type of evaluation and investigation into a creative process that looks a little deeper and asks more of the consumer of the criticisms. While there may seem to be nothing simpler than posting an image as a critique of a wine, in reality this kind of critique demands much more from the “viewer” because it entails a more complex approach to evaluating wine.
    So, yes. While some average wine consumers might find the “reviews” at Chateau Petrogasm interesting and even fun, the vast majority may not have use for them. And that’s ok. What if every criticism attempted to be simply utilitarian. I’d have to slit my wrists from boredom.

  15. Anneliese - August 10, 2007

    I think the brick wall description for the Sea Smoke is really saying, “Rough and impenetrable, but give it time for the wall to come down,” rather than a literal translation of, crumbly brick and broken concrete.
    But that’s the beauty of images, it’s open for interpretation, just as much as are the written reviews.
    Now if we could use those images on the labels, then we wouldn’t have to research prior to shopping! =P

  16. Mike - August 10, 2007

    Anneliese: “I think the brick wall description for the Sea Smoke is really saying, “Rough and impenetrable, but give it time for the wall to come down,” rather than a literal translation of, crumbly brick and broken concrete.”
    I thought the image implied that the wine was falling apart! Oh well, back to the drawingboard.
    Mike

  17. Anneliese - August 11, 2007

    hahaha, Mike, yeah, that could be it to! A picture says a thousand words, doesn’t it? 🙂

  18. Anneliese - August 11, 2007

    and I meant “too” not “to.” 🙂

  19. Andrew - August 11, 2007

    i thought the wall meant dusty, brick red colour, gravelly tannins, dried out…

  20. The Residents of Chateau Petrogasm - August 11, 2007

    Greetings from Chateau Petrogasm!
    We would like to thank everyone for their impassioned reactions to our website. Chateau Petrogasm wouldn’t be effective if everyone instantly loved it (though, to those who love it, we love you). The project requires and depends on constant questioning and skepticism, for that is an essential component of performativity.
    But, that said, we want to make it clear that we don’t advocate the abandonment of traditional methods of review. There are certainly advantages to using words and points. And, there is no reason why the two projects are mutually exclusive. In fact, believe it or not, as residents of the Chateau, we still use words to describe wine on a daily basis. But, we found that images worked for us. They provoked a new facet in our understanding of wine and filled a void left behind by the presently available resources. We decided to share this medium with the rest of the wine-drinking world. We only hope that it adds to vast resources already available and prompts our visitors to think in new ways. More importantly, we invite everyone to criticize and comment upon our reviews. The kind of debates like the ones above on the Sea Smoke and DRC posts are incredibly meaningful and important. And, if you find yourself particularly enthused, consider joining the Chateau!
    Ultimately, the idea is not to close off, but to open up.
    Cheers!
    Ben and Andrew
    Co-Founders of Chateau Petrogasm

  21. trinity - August 11, 2007

    As a novice when it comes to wine, I welcome the non-pretentiousness of the Chateau. I can’t really relate to numerical scores or the yays or nays given to certain vintages. What I can relate to is the universal approach that the site offers. I see a wine that I’ve never tried and what follows is a picture of James Brown in a bright red suit. “Yow!” and “Blam!” A fiery and exciting connection is made and I want to have a glass. I think the site is another great medium for wine commentary. Both the thinking man’s wine review AND a place for people who don’t “get” wine.

  22. The Residents of Chateau Petrogasm - August 11, 2007

    P.S. We forgot to mention the most important part: Have fun!
    P.P.S Thanks Trinity!
    Ben, Andrew, and the Residents

  23. Tish - August 12, 2007

    Fascinating thread. The Petrogasmic folks deserve 99 points for developing a completely original means of translating wine impressions. Note the word translating. Most people who write tasting notes actually believe they are transmitting their personal perceptions about wine(s), but what we are really doing is trying to translate, as in from one person’s reality to others’. I firmly believe that it is darn near impossible to WRITE a tasting note that multiple individuals can agree on. Words only give a false impression of commonality. In truth, one person’s apple will be another’s pear; and so it will always be.
    What the Petrogasm method seems to have done is simply to have chosen a completely new language for the translation process. It is limited, to be sure, but totally intriguing to me. It will be fascinating to see if any mainstrea wine magazines will give them some ink… Methinks maybe a drip here or there, but to give it real play would be to admit the flaws in their own systems of words and numbers.
    By the way, for the purists who visit this blog and are worried that tasting notes as we know them sort of have to be dull and concrete to make communal sense, I highly recommendscanning some of the mellifluous notes at http://www.750ml.blogspot.com. Different strokes for different folks… that’s how tasting notes/images — like wines — will always be…

  24. Kathleen - August 12, 2007

    Gary V. at wine library TV has a similar idea. His website sells t-shirts with pictures of the “oakmonster” and a dead deer with fruit coming out of it’s innards. Being cartoons, they are cute, maybe not as scary as a moldy strawberry or as inscrutable as a brick wall.
    As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
    Kathleen
    Albany, NY

  25. Mark Storer - August 13, 2007

    The commentary and comments here are fascinating and with good insight. I have no way to build upon them–except to say that as one who loves wine, writes about it and cares about it–I think this is brilliant. It’s just one more way to build a vocabulary that is, at its best, a difficult one.

  26. Jerry Murray - August 13, 2007

    Though I don’t find these reviews ‘usefull’, I do find them fascinating. They do much to describe the ugliness that lies at the heart of any beautiful wine. When I saw that moldy strawberry I said to myself that they nailed red burgundy on the head!
    Critics too often rely on safe and largely uninformative language to describe wines. We never see reviews with descriptors like fecal, sweat, armpit, body oder, potting soil and see them as positive comments even if they accurately describe the attributes of a great wine! These images have the courage to address this. I also see a much greater potential with this sort of reviewing; the description of texture. Current wine critics fall far short of providing useful information on the texture of a wine which really seperates good wines from great ones. Will I view these images to figure out what wine to buy next? NO. I will use these images to stretch the bounds of my own thinking about wine; to go beyond words that seem to always fall short, to try to boil a wine down to its essence and to see if there is a way to describe not how a wine tastes but how it feels. Hopefully I find myself being less intellectual about wine and more visceral; reacting instead of analyzing.

  27. spittoon - August 15, 2007

    Wine Tasting Note: Domaine Richaud Cairanne, 2003, Cotes du Rhone Village, France.

    I’ve been trying too hard (or so the discussions between a few fellow wine bloggers on Twitter would have it). Following its ‘discovery’ here I put a call out to a handful to take up the challenge of providing a…

  28. Rob Campbell - August 15, 2007

    Robert McKee would say…
    The subjective reality of taste
    meets the objective reality of the pictures.
    The result is ART I suppose.
    But I wonder… does the artist go and photograph exactly what he thinks or does he (or she) search google images…
    http://wine-assistant.com

  29. Tom Wark - August 15, 2007

    Rob,
    Does the artist paint with oils or use found images? It would be a choice driven by talent I think.

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