Hypocrisy and Natural Wine
So, Isabelle Legeron wants stricter label requirements for wine and more transparency….except no word of such “transparency” when it comes to the use of the term “Natural”. For that term on a label or promotional materials, no such label regulations are necessary:
Stronger legal framework
Careful food sourcing should equal careful drinks sourcing, says Isabelle Legeron. For her it just makes sense. As restaurants, and their customers alike, care even more about what what goes through their kitchen, and ends up on their plate, then it is only natural the same should apply to the wines that restaurants and bars are pouring into their glasses.
The difficulty, however, says Legeron is that whilst people might understand and accept the farming techniques being used to make more sustainable and organic food, they don’t equally understand the different classifications of wine – be it natural, biodynamic or organic. It’s why so much of the RAW wine fair is still about trying to educate consumers about differently styles of wine and what all the terminology actually means.
For her the problem fundamentally centres around labelling and the transparency of the wine industry’s production values. Whilst the food industry has particularly stringent labelling laws, rules and regulations are not as strict in the wine industry.
It’s why Legeron continues to campaign for a much stronger legal framework in which wine can be made, bought and sold, with greater transparency underpinning the production techniques and ingredients. Central to all this is organic wines. If, for example, the starting point was that all wines were produced organically and naturally in the first place, then we wouldn’t need all the vocabulary of organic, natural, biodynamic winemaking because the basic assumption would be the wine is clean to start with.
There is a word for wanting something for someone else, but not for yourself… Umm? Dang. What is that word? I’ll figure it out.
Meanwhile, wine is not “wholesome” unless its organic, biodynamic or “natural”:
“She proposes that modern winemaking is just 50 years old, when high degrees of mechanisation became involved. This had the effect of moving styles away a traditional rustic, wholesome flavour towards the polished fruit styles so beloved of many so called New World countries.”
Here’s what I’m wondering: Is “rustic” a euphemism for “spoiled” or “flawed”? Is “wholesome” a euphemism for “only those wines my friends like”?
Oh…by the way…I found the word was looking for earlier: Hypocrisy.
The term “natural wine” and the way it has been marketed by primarily denigrating anything not considered natural has been a hypocritical fiasco from day 1.