Archive for the ‘Natural Wine’ Category

Apr 12, 2018

Hypocrisy and Natural Wine

So, Isabelle Legeron wants stricter label requirements for wine and more transparency….except no word of such “transparency” when it comes to the use of the term “Natural”.  For that term on a label or promotional materials, no such label regulations are necessary: Stronger legal framework Careful food sourcing should equal careful drinks sourcing, says Isabelle Legeron. For her it just makes sense. As restaurants, and their customers alike, care even more about what what goes through their kitchen, and ends…

Nov 15, 2017

The Ongoing Tale of the Gutter Snipes of Natural Wine World

Is it possible for Natural Wine advocates to be anything other than assholes? More and more it seems not. For example: “Those ‘faults’ [in Natural Wine] can exist to different levels and, in some cases, I’d argue they add to the wine’s character. It isn’t black and white. Advocates of conventional wine can’t handle that and, even more, can’t handle that some hipster kid on Lower Clapton Road – who they’d argue knows nothing – is celebrating the wine for…

Jul 26, 2017

Demolishing Natural Wine

One of America’s most experienced, accomplished and insightful wine writers recently demolished both the idea of “natural” wine and the intellectual artifice of the “natural” wine movement. This is notable because outside of intellectually disciplined observers of the wine world and some hacks like myself, there hasn’t been all that much push back against the foundations of “Natural Wine”. In the course of schooling the natural wine movement at Wine Review Online, Paul Lukacs made the following point that deserves…

Apr 17, 2017

Are Burgundy Wine Growers Cheating Terroir?

It’s being reported by the London Telegraph that the entire Burgundy wine region is set to be protected by a ” ‘hailstone shield’ to kill destructive storms that have blighted the famed wine growing region in recent years.” Here’s what I’m wondering: Is this “Hailstone Shield” altering the terroir of Burgundy, and if it is, what does this say about the longstanding commitment in Burgundy to its unique terroir and the unique wines it is said to produce? The first…

Jan 4, 2017

Wine Sorcery – Don’t be Taken In

Consumers possess a number of misconceptions about wine. But some of those misconceptions are downright hilarious: “Wine tastes better on a ‘Fruit Day’ than on a ‘Root Day’ ”  Uh Huh! Jamie Goode, wine scientist and wine critic-turned-debunker, politely and rhetorically rips the biodynamic drinking crowd a new one: “There have been several informal, small scale tests of the calendar, but these haven’t had the necessary rigour to provide any significant results. But a study just published, led by two…