Wine and Where the Kangaroo Resides
The governing body in France that grants appellation status to wine growing regions has added 4 new appellations to the over 400 that currently are recognized in France.
There are apparently some who are quite unhappy about this further carving up of France’s vineyard lands:“France’s wine industry often operates at different speeds with little co-ordination or coherence,” said Jean Clavel, head of the Coteaux Languedoc AOC region.
“This decision by INAO is the fruit of 10 years of work by
different committees. The wine world moves at the speed of the internet
and this decision seems to me to be completely out-dated.”
The point M.Clavel is trying to make is that appellations are outdated in a world that is seeing most wine being bought based on price and varietal, rather than an obscure place name on the label. The point is also one born out of the fact that French winemakers are having a harder and harder time competing with New World wines that really have little concern for the idea that where grapes are grown really has much meaning to the consumer who appears more concerned with the species of animal on the label.
I would argue that the problem is not that consumers don’t care about the place the wine was made or don’t care about "terroir", but rather there is a lack of imagination on the part of those who do think place is important and that "terroir" can define a product.
It’s a lack of marketing imagination to be precise. Pretty soon someone is going to figure out that if you can make a bottle of wine a substitute for "being there", then all you have to do is make where ever "There" is a locale people want to be. It appears number of French vintners, marketers, exporters and importers of wine have forgotten the power of envy and desire when it comes to marketing.
They should consider what that the set up from admiring a kangaroo is an admiration of the place where the Kangaroo resides.