Behold: The Golden Age of Artisan Winemaking

Today, on the front page of the SF Chronicle, above the fold, was a huge story about the sale of venerable Stag’s Leap Winery for $185 Million. This story, along with the news that William Hill and Canyon Road went to a consortium of St. Michelle and Antinori and Duckhorn sold most of it’s value to an equity firm, led to the state of Napa Valley being a BIG concern not just in the media but in the industry.

I was trying to muster some sort of concern or even interest in these developments but just couldn’t. There is a suggestion swirling around all the media reports that Napa Valley is "evolving" or becoming more corporate or that the California wine industry is changing:

"
The transaction is a big step down the corporate path for the renowned
valley, where wineries once were strictly family enterprises."

I simply don’t see how the sale of Stag’s Leap is a "big step" down the corporate path.

The fact is, today in America and in California we are in a GOLDEN AGE of small, artisan winemaking.

The vast majority of wineries in CA are privately owned. You can’t travel on foot in this state without tripping over a new winery or brand "dedicated to exposing the unique terroir of (name the region)". It’s an embarrassment of riches for wine lovers who value a diversity of experience.

Why I’d bet that at least four or five new privately owned wineries were founded in just the past two days here in California. New custom crush facilities that winemakers rent to make there wine are popping up all over the state to deal with the demand for winemaking space. I read about more and more co-op tasting rooms emerging…in urban areas.

Hell, there’s a god damned Renaissance of private winery ownership in America today.

Someone go talk to Jim Laube of the Wine Spectator or Robert Parker or the San Francisco Chronicle Tasting panel.  Ask them about the wines that are crossing their desks these days. My bet is that on a weekly basis they are confronted with a brand of wine they’ve never heard of before. My bet is that they are receiving more wines as samples than ever before.

Here’s the real question: How is it that corporate American and the big investment funds haven’t yet found Napa Valley, let alone Sonoma, Santa Barbara or Mendocino. Corporate America hasn’t even begun to dabble in wine. Corporate and Investment Fund purchases of wineries are infrequent, few and far between. Now, that might change as more and more Americans drink wine or as India and China mature as markets. 

But rest assured, the small, privately owned, artisan-oriented family wineries has never been stronger in America.

It’s a great time to be a wine consumer who likes variety and loves discovering new winemakers.

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63 Responses

  1. Agent Red - August 1, 2007

    The acquisition of Stags Leap is great news for us small wine sellers. With big conglomerates gobbling up more and more retail shelf space, smaller and more precious wineries will have an even harder time finding their way into real world retail selling venues. While this may sound bad for the wineries and for consumer choice, the fact is that more and more consumers are flocking to the Internet to learn more about wines than they could ever learn from a label or a shelf talker.
    Now, if only we could get state legislators to allow us to ship into all states, THEN we’d see everyone a winner.

  2. Tish - August 2, 2007

    Good points, Tom. It is also worth noting that this is also the Golden Age for “big” wines. We all benefit from the plethora of high-quality artisan wineries, but also from the way in which LARGE wineries (Ste. Michelle, Beringer, Penfolds, et al) are able to craft small lots of superb, special wines.

  3. Sue - August 2, 2007

    Just to set the record straight, it was Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, not Stags’ Leap Winery that was sold. Neighbors yes, but very different wineries.

  4. Tom Wark - August 2, 2007

    Sue,
    To set the record straight, how many times have you had the occasion to make that distinction??
    Cheers,
    tom…

  5. Wine Boy! - August 2, 2007

    “Corporate America” hasn’t yet found Napa, Sonoma, and other parts of the U.S. yet, because the profit margins “in the wine business” are horrible! With that said I would like to add that people “read a.k.a. family wineries” invest so much hard work and capital into producing the worlds greatest beverage! They simply do not have the soul to spend more money to make a better wine! Because, making money is the goal not making better wine.
    Regards
    Wine Boy!

  6. Alastair Bathgate - August 3, 2007

    Wine is big business, and big money. Many of the chateaux of Bordeaux are owned by institutions. On occasions, this has resulted in lower quality wine for periods, but on average the consumer has not suffered, since the insitutions quickly learn that if you produce average quality wine you can only charge average prices.
    But the corporations can only make money from the biggest names so there will always be room for the artisan; and wine enthusiasts like myself will always seek out the lesser known wines – often by exploring the internet, the beauty of which is that anyone can connect to anyone without the need of a middleman.

  7. wineguy - August 3, 2007

    Alder at Vinography reports that CalPers, the huge California Public Employees Pension Fund, is investing in Oregon Pinot Noir Vineyards.

  8. Tom Ewing - August 3, 2007

    After being in the wholesale end for over two decades I went searching for a company where I could devote more energy to Real Wine, rather than simply act as a janitor for some Big Consolidator–and found a home. You might want to check out our website: http://www.vintagepoint.com. Kermit Lynch’s “Wine Route” has become an Interstate, and I’m thrilled to be back on Route 66, where the terroir REALLY meets the road.

  9. Mark Finley - August 3, 2007

    I think a lot of this is just estate planning for folks who started out 30+ years ago.

  10. DavidB - August 4, 2007

    Tom: This post has my attention. While the claim that the sale of SLWC is promoted as another step down the commercial road (and it will be), your rebuttal is, at first glance a valid one. Your calculation, however, is numerated incorrectly, on labels. I find your logic flawed because you do not calculate the volume and therefore market exposure. Your point assumes that all labels are equally available in most channels. Further, you take a unique point of view from a wine reviewer, not a typical wine consumer.
    While the vast majority of labels, to your point I concede, are not influenced by the commercializtion form corporate companies, it stands that these wines are not largely available. They require investigation and time to find them. Therefore the effect that you posit is unrealized in the at-large market. I would argue that corporate America HAS influenced the privately held winery.
    Corporate America is here in the wine business too and getting bigger. Please consider this: Calculate or otherwise survey, if you will, the amount of cases, not labels, that are controlled and produced by publicly held companies – Constellation, Allied-Domecq / Daigeo, Pacific Wine Partners, Brown-Forman, 360 Global, Chalone, etc. These companies, in their efforts to meet profit targets and share holder happiness, have taken a page out consumer marketing 101. That is, when sales of your brand are on decline, you create new brands. Therefore new brands are introduced on a monthly basis. This is in keeping with normal commercial behavior that we see in P & G, Nestle, Coca-cola, General Mills, Lever Bros, etc. Furthermore, when brands are big, increase the marketing spending and hold down costs of production. While saving a nickel off the price of razor blades is understandable, this has important consequences in the wine business
    Let’s return back to the volume. To the sub-total of brands and labels that the publicly held companies let’s add the volume of the privately held companies that COMPETE with the publicly held companies. While they may qualify for your arguement that they remain private, they are nonetheless competing in a very corporate arena. Therefore the ACT like publicly held companies (see above). And there are many, many companies like this: Gallo, KJ Family (incl. Legacy Estates), Terlato Brands, The Wine Group, Don Sebastiani $ Son, Bronco Wine (mercy!!), LVMH, Klein, Icon Estates, Trincero, Antinori, Turner Road, Foster’s (Beringer-Blass), Deutsch (Yellow-Tail), Vincor, Boisset-America and on and on and on. (Please note that I haven’t fully included the Euros in this list)
    While not all of these privately held companies march to the corporate tune, many do. Consequently wines that are at this end of the spectrum will show little character, overwhelming monochromatic profiles and general, if predictable, marginal quality.
    So take that list and procede to Safeway or another store of choice. Count how many corporate labels there are on the shelf. You will be surprised to find that fully half, if not more, fall into these categories. And be careful in the math, because you have to include stealth notables in the tally too – Sanford, Farrell, Cutrer, Erath, W. Hill, Martini, Pecota, Renwood, Foley, Simi, Folie-a-Deux, Sagelands.
    Shall we also include high volume, phantom wineries too? Avalon, Cycles-Gladiator, Martin-Ray, Castle Rock and other.
    The numbers are mind and palate numbing.
    So your point that the wine business remains rather insulated from all of this corporate inlfuence is, to my thinking, a bit delusional. Nothing that trip to Costco couldn’t solve.
    All of this, as mentioned earlier, opens a vast opportunity for the craft, artisan winery. How to market one’s wines, in such noise, is a challenge. But it is possible.
    David B – Dierberg Winery

  11. Tom Wark - August 4, 2007

    David,
    Thanks for writing.
    I’m not unaware of the degree of corporate ownership of wine. And I’ll agree that in supermarkets in most areas they rule the roost.
    However, in terms of the number labels or brands that exist, they are a drop in the bucket.
    So, the question then is how accessible are the many more family owned brands?
    Before that question is answered, I want to be clear, I’m really not concerned with the buying habits of the average wine drinker when it comes to this question. I’m not concerned with the person who only needs to have a cold box of white in their fridge. I’m thinking about the folks who really do enjoy experimenting with different wines.
    These folks have easy and simple access to thousands of unique, small, family owned brands from every corner of America and the globe by simply finding their local specialty wine shop or by doing a quick search or two on the Internet.
    Access to specialty wines has never easier.
    For example, if I want a bottle of that yummy Dierberg Winery Chard or Pinot, I do a quick search of Wine-Searcher and find upwards of 20 different retail outlets where I can buy it.
    Yes, corporate wineries can really overwhelm the grocery store channel. But it’s so easy to find the really interesting stuff I really don’t see the impact on the wine lover from corporate ownership.

  12. Liz - August 4, 2007

    “Here’s the real question: How is it that corporate American and the big investment funds haven’t yet found Napa Valley, let alone Sonoma, Santa Barbara or Mendocino. Corporate America hasn’t even begun to dabble in wine. Corporate and Investment Fund purchases of wineries are infrequent, few and far between. ”
    My $.02, for what it is worth.
    Wall Street marches to a different drum beat that Hwy 29. I think Mondavi is a perfect example to explain this one – they had a hard time meeting shareholder’s expectaions. Cash flow in the wine industry is challenging at best, especially initally. Large capital expenditures are required, sitting on inventory for long periods of time is the norm – these things reflect poorly on P&Ls. Fund managers expect a certain ROI, and a nice model to fill in, they like predictability.
    Wine only companies have huge risk exposures (crop variation/unfavorable reviews or points/barriers to market either in distribution or direct sales). Spirits and Wine companies leverage that risk exposure by being diversified a little – grain spirits are not as reliant on harvest as wineries and distribution can be streamlined.
    I think both Stag’s Leap and Mondavi also pointed out a common theme with American companies – Succession! The Trimbach family has been making wine for 13 generations, the Antinori’s for 600 years. The longest American legacy in nearly any industry in the US is at MOST three generations. It is a cultural difference, but that is a whole other post ; – ).
    Family wineries are faced with a tough choice when the it comes to the ongoing brand building and business when the first generation wants to retire. And Wall Street may not be the answer.

  13. John Lopresti - August 9, 2007

    Well, I can think of a few formerly reliable labels now providing cover for corporate minimal quality products, of the variety TomW so accurately describes as THAT CHANNEL, i.e., the marvelous shelves of Safeway, though my favorite is the Healdsburg Safeway for experimentation. It helps if the supermarket has a savvy wine buyer or a charming, motivated distributor, and an open sourcing concept of keeping a full range of unusual and old standbys on the shelves.
    Testing TomW’s rebuttal argument, I web browsed to some labels I used to buy often, and most, true to Tom’s rightful defense, are actually improving. When I worked at Souverain, Bill Bonetti exited posthaste for Sonoma Cutrer about the time I headed up valley, and from Pillsbury to Allied to all the subsequent muddling about trying to find its niches, Souverain did little more than make generic tablewine, but now there is a new plastic banner draped over the new stone columnade entry proclaiming Rosso and Blanco, and somethings fortunate are occurring inside.
    Traveling downriver I thought I would check what happened to Marty Griffin’s old bigRed place; aha. The ownership is a consortium; in fact, somepeople were stressing publicly that particular outfit might have put in the highest bid for ScreamingEagle; but, wait, checking a few labels, it looks like even though BigRed the label exists and despite its grapes’ sourcing way far from Dry Creek AVA, the quality is apparently improved.
    That is what TomW is driving his argument toward, I think. When we look, sure, there are the miles of grocery shelves that are very fictitious, relying on fame but filling the bottle with very inexpensive and poorly made wines. But when we look for the longtime good organizations, many are still good, and a lot are way better. New technology as well as our understanding of our own microclimates all have improved what we can do.
    So I got on the Gundlach Bundschu mailing list, as a reward for this effort.
    A while back I chatted with the cellermaster at Geyser Peak, when Henry Trione owned it. It was tempting, even now when I no longer haul Menestrinas around for the straw bosses, to help make some private reserve zin that would sell for $75. a bottle. Naw, I thought; relax. I could do better myself, if I just spend the time, and cash, on our own old terraces, replanting our dream ranch around where I have lived many years, kind of a Yorkville Highlands climate type, the thought goes. Several wineries have done what Geyser Peak developed with Trione onboard, though he is out of there now; namely, beginning some good wine categories, but using the famous label to market the generic stuff. Oh, shame, Beam owns the Peak now; but, wait: there are still some pricey wines on sale. We’ll see if Beam retains the good people and products.
    Drifting out of region, it was a guaranteed problem, whoever tried to improve Fetzer. So they have a famous label. But their fruit sourcing had to change, regardless of how conscientious they were about ag practices and learning good vinification technique. It remains to be seen whether Brown Forman has an inkling. Same with Frei, though there is a private label that fetches a goodly price; too many hundreds of trucks of out of region grapes and blending wine going out Dry Creek Road to obtain a Sonoma County label. Tsk, tsk.
    http://www.ffcwinery.com/open.html
    http://www.geyserpeakwinery.com/ourwines/winedetail.aspx?id=121
    http://www.hopkilnwinery.com/_files/PosItemFiles/statsheet_2005_russian_river_red.pdf
    http://www.gunbun.com/the_wines/zin_rv_05.pdf
    http://www.jpvwines.com/jpvwines/2004_napa_syrah.html
    Guess I am on the wineroad a while. My vote: TomW’s amazing rebuttal wins, easy.

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