A Very Good Review of Mondovino
Here is one of the best reviews of the controversial film, "Mondovino". Composed by Kerry Howley of Reason Magazine, the review is balanced and inquisitive.
There is just one part of the review that confuses me. I can’t figure out if the author is offering the view of one side of the debate or if the author truly believes this:
"The space between Guibert (portrayed as the anti-globalist) and Mondavi (portrayed as the globalist)i is wine’s battlefield. Terroir, a central tenet of wine’s mystique, dictates that a great wine expresses its place of origin. Napa is too new for even the pretense of terroir. Its wines are the product of technology and experimentation, not centuries of careful cultivation. Its techniques aren’t family secrets or lessons culled from the land, but scientific innovations pumped out of UC Davis in the 1960s. So Napa had to create its own mythology—one of person, not of place. Mondavi, the man, is what Bordeaux, the place, once was."
Given the rest of the review, I’m inclined to believe the author is simply trying to express the "anti-globalist" view of the world of Napa Valley wine. They seem too smart to actually buy such a ridiculous set of notions as they are spelled out about.