Jennifer Rosen of Scripps and the Rocky Mountain News has an interesting column today in which she comes to the defense of "corporate wine":
"I’ve had it up to here with complaints about faceless corporate wines. It’s about time someone stood up for them."
I want aware that corporate wine needed defending, but she does it well.
Her point is that if wine is going to hit the mass market and become as ubiquitous as Coke then it needs to be "cheap, unintimidating and reliable."
And that is something we have a bunch of these days. There is more cheap, reliably average wine with inviting labels than ever in the history of America. In the end, Jennifer wants us to "stop picking on "Wallgreens Wine!"
Ok, I can take that pledge. What I can’t do is go out on the same ledge she is treading when she leaps a tad bit too far in claiming, "While the wines that convulse us in religious ecstasy tend to come from
small, quirky producers, we forget how much independent wine is
How much of that wine is dreadful? Which ones are dreadful? Even those wines I find over oaked, over extracted and pathetically high in pH tend to be better than Yellowtail and the other…corporate wines that I see I’ve now pledged not to pick on.
So, honor of my pledge to celebrate, rather than pick on corporate wines, I am seriously considering starting my own corporate wine. I’m going to call it CHATEAU STRAW MAN.