A term, that after nearly 20 years in the wine industry, I’d never come across.
It refers to the native and now terribly obscure grapes of Hungary, a country that is just now beginning to export it’s 2000 year-old winemaking heritage to the West, and the topic of Bruce Schoenfeld’s latest article in Travel & Leisure: "Wine’s Next Frontier".
Travel & Leisure Magazine isn’t The Wine Spectator. And it surely isn’t Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Yet it is the source of one of the best first person wine articles I’ve read in some time.
Schoenfeld is on a quest. He wants something different; something very far beyond the monochromatic Chardonnays, Cabernets and Syrahs that seem to come from a single tube, regardless of the country or appellation on the bottle. That took him to Hungary where he took to searching out authentic "Hungaricum", the heirloom wines of that country.
Along the way the reader meets the "wine archaeologist", learns that communism may have been better for Hungarian winemaking that the newish free-market, and that this free market might spell the demise of the country’s native grapes.
This is great wine writing; a kind of prose that you rarely get inside the wine magazines of the U.S. or England.
Then…learn more about Hungarian wines and grapes HERE.