Rose & Reese’s: A Disappointing Duo
I don’t think it is a matter of simply being adverse to change, though I am a fan of stability.
That said, I really can’t say how disappointed I was recently when I picked up a domestic rose that I’ve drunk a lot of over the years. It was, sort of, my "go to" rose: it has been truly dry, expressive of strawberries but not overly so, exhibited good acid and really was a beautiful afternoon quaffer that usually came in around 13.5% alcohol at most.
A vintage ago I bought a six bottles not even having tried it. I knew what it tasted like. It always tasted the same…that’s why I bought it. But this time it had sugar in it. The hue of the wine was darker and it didn’t have the structure. I drank it all. Must have been a bad or difficult year I figured.
But this vintage the wine was the same. Sweet and nearly cloying. What we have here is a deliberate change in winemaking style.
I couldn’t help but think of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups.
They were my Oreo. I used to love to nipple around the edges where the chocolate layer was nice and thick and chunky, leaving the thin coating of chocolate on the top and bottom, sandwiching a firm cache of sweet peanuty buttery stuff in between. What a great candy!
But they went and changed it. I noticed this about 10 years ago. Today the Reese’s outer edge coating of chocolate is a thin layer of waxiness that has no more of that chunky character. This isn’t a bad batch we are talking about. It’s a positive decision to make the Reese’s into a lesser product.
I felt betrayed by the Reese’s folks, but I’d been on their bandwagon since Little League. I’ve only been drinking this particular domestic Rose for about a decade. So, it’s not so much a sense of betrayal I feel. Just plain old disappointment in the changeover to something different.