The Wine Industry Should Commit to Telling The Truth
If you disagree, then read this formerly active, yet highly coherent, set of posts on the issue of biodynamic farming.
One thing is for sure, however. Raymond Paccot, of Domaine La Colombe in Switzerland, as well as others at the recent convention of the Academie du Vin, will disagree. According to Paccot:
"Biodynamic winemakers represent a 'resistance' movement. They are at the forefront of efforts to improve expressions of terroir by rejecting 20th Century cultivation methods."
Hogwash. Artisan winemakers across the globe including California, Australia, New Zealand and many Old World winemaking countries have been chasing terroir for decades using minimalist techniques in the winery and in the vineyard. Suggesting that Biodynamics is somehow at the forefront of any movement to capture terroir in a bottle is not only insulting to many fine winemakers who would never think of adopting Rudolph Steiner's snake oil, but also demonstrates a blind eye toward what has happened in the world of winemaking over the past 30 years.
This is an old, tired topic that doesn't need any explanation, nor much in depth consideration. Biodynamics IS a hoax.
I was inspired to revisit this issue here, briefly, after reading Decanter's report on the Acadamie Du Vin's recent conference in England where the issue of "Noble Wine" was debated and biodynamics again was raised as something serious. Color me a curmudgeon if you like, but occasionally I read this sort of stuff coming out of the wine industry and simply can't help myself. The unwillingness to disconnect fantasy from reality invades so much of our culture, including the wine culture. Folks ought to know better. And others, prominent folks in the industry, ought to appreciate their responsibility to tell the truth.