Varietal vs. Region
Jason Walsh is a UK writer who, according to his blog "Design of the Nation", takes on issues of design,
culture, politics and technology. I think that just about covers everything. Included in this bag of issues Mr. Walsh covers is, apparently, wine.
In a post today, Walsh offers an interesting notion: That including varietal information on a wine label (Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot, etc) as most of the New World wines do, equates to dumbing down wine and allows consumers to act sophisticated about wine by taking the easy road to wine understanding. Walsh writes:
"But is it (using regional identification a la "Bordeaux", "Medoc", etc.) any less comprehensible to the average, non-enthusiast consumer than the new world labelling by grape type?
There’s nothing wrong with enjoying new world wine and anyone that says
there is, is nothing but a snob. However, there is no reason to
simplify European wine labelling – or indeed European wine."
What Mr. Walsh doesn’t seem to get is that the inclusion of varietal labeling is not a substitute to regional labeling, but rather an addition to regional labeling. He forgets that on every bottle of Argentinian Malbec or California Syrah there also exists an appellation such as "Mendoza" or "Russian River Valley."
So, if you are giving the consumer MORE information I think indeed the labels with less information are "less comprehensible"…by definition.
Walsh goes on to write:
"Reducing French wine to grape type labelling would be another triumph
for ignorant branding. Think about it: does the fact that a wine
labelled as being made from a grape that you’ve probably never even
seen really make it easier to understand and therefore buy? Why is this
a superior method of description and differentiation than region?"
Let me explain why it’s superior method description and differentiation.
Information is power because it allows you to grow as an intellectual being. For example, if I know I like Cabernet Sauvignon more than Cabernet Franc and I have a wine that is simply labeled "Bordeaux" but don’t like the wine, it might be interesting to know what exactly it was about the wine that I did not like before. Perhaps the wine was made primarily or completely with Cabernet Franc. But I don’t know that, because the label only says "Bordeaux".
The beauty of wine is that it is a beverage made in such an infinitely diverse set of ways that its drinking is also an intellectual exercise, and a fulfilling one at that too. The more information we have about a wine, the better we are able to reach down into our bank of experience and make decisions on what to drink or what to buy.
The problem with simple regional identifiers on a label is that it forces the consumer to investigate further the sometimes very arcane laws of regional wine laws. Put the varietal on the label along with the regional identifier and now the consumer has something to think about as they drink, rather than something to research as they drink.
Walsh concludes with this bit of….commentary:
"Could it simply be that with grape type labelling there is a bit less
work involved and it is therefore easier to sound knowledgeable and
sophisticated? Some wine critics have lauded simplified labelling as
some kind of triumph for democracy. Well, it’s a funny kind of
democracy where people are encouraged to be not only snobs, but also
ignorant."
I guess here I want to point out that by knowing the the varietal AND the region the wine drinker not only "sounds" more knowledgeable about the wine they have chosen to drink…but they ARE more knowledgeable about the wine they are drinking. There’s nothing ignorant about having more information at your disposal.
Let’s encourage all of the world’s winemakers to put BOTH varietal and region on the label.
No doubt that wine drinkers are better consumers and consumers better wine drinkers when they know more about what’s in the bottle. And I’m always an advocate creating a less intimidating buying experience.
My only concern about this whole varietal vs. region thing is homogenization. If labels from historically different wine regions start to look the same, is the natural extension that the wine will become the same? Will regions that once emphasized unique soil, climate, etc. start to ignore such things because, well, it just doesn’t sell?
Tricia,
I see your concern but I don’t think it’s an issue. Californians have been putting place and varietal on their labels for a long time and we have a huge variety of styles here and many a winery dedicated to making regionally defined wines such as Carneros-style merlot, Green Valley Pinot, Anderson Valley Pinot Gris, etc.
God forbid that “dumbing down” French labels leads to a reduction in the French oversupply! The horror! The Philistines in the US might actually drink it! The barbarians are at the gates!
V
“For example, if I know I like Cabernet Sauvignon more than Cabernet Franc and I have a wine that is simply labeled “Bordeaux” but don’t like the wine, it might be interesting to know what exactly it was about the wine that I did not like before. Perhaps the wine was made primarily or completely with Cabernet Franc. But I don’t know that, because the label only says “Bordeaux”.”
This a problem as I see it. Why would it be the varietal that caused you not to like the wine? I had back in my store so many people that came in saying, for example, “I dont’ like Cabernet” when asked why, they say they tried one once. So that means all cabernet is the same?
Anyways to the point I like the idea of having to know something to enjoy it. Yes a label with the grape would be nice, but I can’t stand that some people don’t put a little effort into something they expect so much pleasure from.