Dirty, Grimy Wine Marketing
“I think we’ve been living in ‘Parkerworld’ for the last few decades, and many consumers are fed up with homogenized supermarket wines, and now need a bit of singularity, uniqueness and authenticity, not to mention some real quality.”
“So natural wines fill a need for authenticity, for a singular product that was made by a real person, and that tastes unique, and that expresses the terroir of where it came from.”
Fabio Bartolomei, winemaker, Vinos Ambiz on natural wines at Catavino.net
I can dish it out, so I should be willing to take it. And I am willing to take criticism for the stand I’ve taken against the way the so-called “Natural” Wine producers and champions use denigration of wines not invited to their party in order to market their wares.
Fabio is a fairly vocal champion and producer of so-called “Natural” Wine. And he’s a nice guy. But you have to either be so completely wrapped up in your own mission so as to ignore reality or completely ignorant of what has been happening in the world of wine over the past twenty years to be able to come out and say so-called “Natural” wine fills a need for authenticity, singular wine products, real people making wine, unique tastes in wine and wines that express terroir.
As though in the past few decades none of these things existed.
Looking at California alone, the vast majority—probably upwards of 90%—of the wines being produced are made by real, dedicated winemakers who strive and succeed in exposing their terroir and are making wines that are certainly authentic…not to mention, of real quality.
This attitude that everything every wine produced prior to the rise of the so-called “Natural” wine movement is rampant of the movement’s champions. It’s a project built on the desire to denigrate. And that’s ugly.
The next time you hear a fan or champion of so-called “Natural” Wine imply or, like in this case, come right out and say that non “Natural” Wines are inauthentic, lacking in quality, or fail to express terroir, you ought to go take a shower. Because it’s a pretty dirty way to market and promote wine.